Fabric, time, energy, and money were saved by sewing preliminary test-versions of the garments: toiles.
Learning of Vintage Pattern Lending Library's 1912 Sew La Mode Illustree Project - in April 2012 - I became a participant - test-sewing vintage La Mode Illustree patterns, with over 750 fellow-participants. My first La Mode Illustree practice-pattern - coincidentally - began not with fabric and thread, but wire: it was a Ladies Spring Hat, built upon a wire armature.
Later, Bill Cunningham's "On the Street: Sun Spot" New York Times feature piqued my interest - with its attention to Jil Sander's veiled beanies by Stephen Jones, so it was time for another toile. For the veiled beanie, I had no pattern and had to create one - with paper, fabric, patience, and the assistance of the patient small-scale millinery model Hattie - and my Number One Good Luck Employee Cat. Link to the "Sewing a Slouchy Veiled Rib-Knit Cap" post here.
|A first small-scale practice toile - McCall's 3232 halter, worn by Hattie.|
|Bralette and high-waisted shorts small-scale toile, vintage Simplicity 1632.|
|Hattie wearing small-scale toile for a sarong that was so right - Simplicity 9702.|
|Small-scale practice toile for romper - from a vintage costume sewing pattern.|
|Small-scale toile for bloomer-skirt - clever Willi Wear for McCall's 7947.|
|Fleur's Simplicity 7581 pantdress jumpsuit small-scale toile in progress. See pantdress at Art Fashion Creation header photo.|
|Hattie wearing a crown-variation small-scale toile for Vogue 8213 sunhat.|
|Hattie wearing small-scale Vogue 8213 sunhat with large brim, contrast lining, and added ties.|
|Hattie assisting with VPLL Ladies Spring Hat test-armature.|
|Model Mimi wearing test-toile for La Mode Illustree Child's Apron, during participation in Vintage Pattern Lending Library 1912 Project.|
|Bebe Bouton wearing miniscule test-toile for La Mode Illustree blouse - E1000 - VPLL 1912 Project.|
|Vintage Pattern Lending Library 1912 Project - E1000 Blouse, La Mode Illustree practice toile in progress.|
|VPLL 1912 Project small-scale toile for intelligently-designed La Mode Illustree Blouse 0219.|
|Bebe Bouton in her futurist tuta-jumpsuit toile and Enormous Pompon Zinnia Bonnet. Bebe was a doll in need of a new body and this starfish-shaped pattern is the prototype.|
|Slouch cloche-beanie small-scale toile - fit for Hattie at Art Fashion Creation.|
|Small-scale apron toile in very old sewing sampler scrapbook - created by the Great Grandmother of Toile La La.|
If you wish to read more about the summer wardrobe practice toiles above, see the Art Fashion Creation blog archives - select the July 2010 posts to begin.
If you wish to read more about the Vintage Pattern Lending Library 1913 Project or the La Mode Illustree small-scale toiles pictured above, see my dressesandhats blog.