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Toile La La is a research blog for fashion design, ART, history, and creativity in every shape, form, and fashion. stitcht collage, jennifer hawkins hock - june 2016

Monday, April 24, 2017

My Tres Petit Trianon Garden is Ready for Spring : )

For Spring 2017, I'm taking an ever more natural approach to the wee garden. You may have seen it here at Toile La La or the Art Fashion Creation blog - as a venue for a small fashion show I created using my poupees de modes dolls first and then collage models the next year. I like the work of Dutch garden designer Piet Oudolf and have over the years started focusing more on perennial plants and native wildflowers. This year I decided to expand the borders of the garden and move out of its former rectangular shape. This decision was inspired by the appearance of purple wildflowers - within and without the rectangle - which are attracting bees large and small daily. 

In 2015, my husband and I visited Versailles and nearby - The Musee de la Toile de Jouy in Jouy en Josas, France. The palace of Versailles and the surrounding gardens are very impressive - beautiful, but my preference is a look of wild and flourishing - almost untamed Nature. And that is what I found at the Queen's Hamlet - Versailles, also - to some extent there was a similar look within the gardens greeting visitors to the Musee de la Toile de Jouy. In the 18th and 19th centuries, charming fabric often printed with country scenery was printed in Jouy en Josas. In long strips, the fabric was stretched out under the sunshine to dry, so today the museum displays colorful flowerbeds shaped like those expanses of fabric.
photo - C P Oberkampf Instagram, Musee de la Toile de Jouy
Working in my flowerbed today, I drew inspiration from Piet Oudolf, the Queen's Hamlet, and the flowerbeds of the Musee de la Toile de Jouy. I'm also hoping to treat the birds, bees, and butterflies with some of these new additions - as well as myself (who loves color and fragrance).

Although my really little Trianon garden is now predominantly filled with perennials, which return year after year, I couldn't resist planting a few annuals this year. Here, a look at what I planted - and views of some perennial Lily of the Valley (wonderfully scented!) and the purple wildflower I-don't-know-the-name-of with bumblebees and honeybees buzzing among its tiny petals.
Lily of the Valley, photo Jennifer Hawkins Hock

Honeybee on purple wildflower - photo JHH

Bumblebee on purple wildflower - Photo Jennifer Hawkins Hock

photo - JHH

Friday, March 24, 2017

Misia Sert 1872-1950

Reclining on a thrift shelf in her polka-dot, mega-mutton-sleeved dress - this doll immediately reminded me of Misia Sert and her Gibson Girl visage. Immersed in studies of Les Nabis artists Edouard and Pierre Bonnard, my eyes were immediately drawn to this porcelain person. I finished my artist room study assemblages, shifted gears from painting to sewing - producing an Art Fashion Creation fashion exhibit, then cooled my jets by returning to the mini Misia. For her here, you'll see I kept Misia in the comfort zone of riotous florals, ruffles, and a high collar - but brought her into the present with a slender sleeve cap and some latex capris. Perhaps we'll revisit those mega-mutton-sleeves later with another update. The real Misia was a talented pianist, but her namesake's hands are like mittens. With imagination, the leggings might allow Misia to jog up and down the keyboard creatively. 

For my fellow feline-focused, I've included a photo of Misia outdoors with Number One - my tabby assistant. You'll notice what looks like a piece of the sky unraveling, which is actually a strand of blue tarpaulin unraveling from an artsy bird family's abandoned nest.

Misia with my artist room study assemblage for Edourard Vuillard's "Misia et Vallotton a Villeneuve". Jennifer Hawkins Hock artist room study.

Number One and the unraveling blue sky. Photo Jennifer Hawkins Hock

Misia in the Victorian-inspired minidress with latex capris. Doll ensemble and photo - JHH

Misia on the piano keys - mini ensemble and photo, JHH

"Vallotton Chez les Natanson" - Edouard Vuillard, 1897

Wednesday, March 8, 2017

Art Fashion Creation Fashion Videos

Most recently, from Knoxville Fashion Week 2017: The Kamama Hanamichi: Butterfly Flowerpath Art Fashion Creation show is here at this Youtube link.
And, my original fashion shows - posted in the pen-name Toile La La - were created with dolls of ceramic or paper and with small-scale toiles. The 2015 Spontaneous Now fashion video is here. Thank you for attending my video runway shows.

Edward S. Curtis Photographs of Native American Women

Though nearly a century old, Edward S. Curtis' photographs of Native American Women spoke to me - with no words - more understandably than most day to day face to face conversations of the present, or certainly more intelligibly than most clipped, abbreviated texts. I had the opportunity to enjoy Curtis' photographs the last day of their exhibit at Booth Western Art Museum and was so struck by the faces, clothing, surroundings and handiwork of those women of the past - I was inspired to further study them. 

If you have the opportunity to view the exhibit or to see these photos online, do note Curtis' ability - through his photography - to connect people despite the seeming limits of time. 

Monday, March 6, 2017

Snips of Fabric, Glitter, Dust, and Petals

During the process and behind the scenes of my very first Art Fashion Creation show - which was beautifully and artfully presented by professional models this time, instead of dolls of ceramic and paper:
Number One Employee Cat is discovered napping on the Art Fashion Creation flower train!
Number One was fascinated with this dress from its conception. She also wanted to trod upon the satin of the Pink Paris Moth Dress (the same satin also used in the Butterfly Frock and the Butterfly Empress dresses). As my worktable became loaded with partially-finished headpieces, brocade seed necklaces, and obi sashes - I had to cut and piece together many of the dresses on the floor, which delighted Number One - although she many times had to be banished from the workroom : (

After finally handstitching the color-blocked and piped lining to the top of this flower train, I took a much needed break - as 2.5 months of sewing begins to tighten neck and shoulder muscles. This is what I saw upon returning. What an accessory Number One would be! Ha ha, I can actually imagine the model trying to navigate the runway with a striped tabby accessory happily riding the flower train. Please don't rush out looking for your own tabby accessory, unless you have plenty of time and sufficient money to care for it : ) 

Now that the show's over, I enjoyed looking through the little snipped piles of fabric I saved during the creation of 12 dresses (and the accessories). You'll see bits of lace, brocade, satin, netting, and even some small practice samples - such as the caterpillar striped tube I assembled after designing the fabric by stitching ribbon stripes to satin. I dressed a pencil in one half of the caterpillar sample. And the bands of fabric are part of a sample I created while deciding the order of fabrics for the hem of a skirt.
Art Fashion Creation photo

Here, you see some brocade and some glitter fabric from obi bows, and some glitter and veiling from headpieces

The small fabric triangles were snipped from the seam allowances of curved areas within the Obi Bow

Tube made from ribbon stripe fabric I created for the caterpillar ensemble

Sample created to determine order of brocade and lace fabrics for Kabuki Skirt

Threads I save in a jar, which are later added to collages
Photos of the Art Fashion Creation Spring 2017 Kamama Hanamichi fashion show garments are posted here.

Wednesday, October 26, 2016

Rescued Sewing Pattern

Proof of my sewing pattern fondness - this scruffy, bandaged old Simplicity:
rescued sewing pattern - Toile La La

Yesterday, I once again professed my love of old sewing patterns - for their illustrations, instructions, and too - little bits of the human touch, such as the handwriting on this one. Notice the consistency of the letter "t" - uncrossed, at the end of the words "fit", "skirt", and "it". And aren't those shoes rather appealing... but the main reason I purchased this pattern (for 10 cents!) was the collar - described as "Italian-type". So feminine, like leaves framing a flower bud. Ironically, the formerly most-coveted component of the pattern - the skirt, is gone. You'll see the pattern owner's writing which says, "Very good skirt. I think you will like it! Easy to make! I want this back when you are through with it." So, perhaps either the original owner or the borrower decided to keep just the skirt pattern pieces.

Tuesday, October 25, 2016

An Exercise in Spontaneity

I'm writing about spontaneity today - as it came to mind in my observation of what I know at this moment due to life and memory, compared to what is known due to googling, reading, or research. I emerged from deep thought regarding my love of research regarding garment construction and fashion history - which resulted from an overheard conversation in a used bookstore. (I wasn't trying, they were talking very loudly.) Two ladies discussed their luck in avoiding the donation of boxes of sewing patterns - saying where would they have stored them and agreeing they're no good after someone's cut into them. Regarding their space, the first comment made sense. However, I truly LOVE examining a used sewing pattern - and know there are multitudes of other people who sew and feel the same. Here are the reasons: the illustrations are fashion history documentation, the instructions very often impart little sewing tricks many people have forgotten, the garment pattern shapes also document fashion history - such as collar shapes, pant widths, and dart location. Which leads to my theme of spontaneity: I began to wonder if there is a museum somewhere dedicated to the commercial sewing pattern - and namely, a museum not affiliated with any particular pattern company...but, first I wanted to think these thoughts without googling the answer - to relish in the spontaneity.

Another cheer for spontaneity: I've switched my exercise routine to focus on dance and spontaneous movement in response to music. Following many many years of teaching various forms of fitness, there are a lot of movements stored in my kinetic memory - my own written and memorized libraries of routines set to music, as well as collected information from other proponents of fitness. However, after all those years (including several spent enthusiastically immersed in kickboxing, yoga, and Zumba), I've made the most important discovery about myself - music is my ultimate motivation. Fresh sound prompts fresh movement.

Friday, September 2, 2016

Little Flower Garden, Autumn Evening

To pull weeds, cultivate dirt, plant new leaves and flowers - I find very relaxing. My favorite gardening tool I call Chicken Foot - is shaped like a big claw and is perfect for digging and scratching out weeds.  Next favorite looks like a large fork and is good for poking all around, loosening dirt and making space for roots. 

My gardening has gone through phases: First, along an old stone and concrete wall, I planted a very large packet of seeds specially mixed to attract butterflies, bees, and birds. I never weeded the garden because in the beginning - I couldn't discern between weeds and wildflowers. The mix did attract a lot of butterflies and also I remember the birds liked the sunflowers. 

Second - I planted a little herb garden, with dill - for tuna salad, and oregano - for spaghetti sauces, and I had spearmint, and apple mint and chocolate mint. Several times I've planted lavender, but it never returns. 

Next, I tried a rock garden - which was on a little hill - very hard, sweaty, sunburnt work! I noticed the slope had several rocks jutting out of the soil and so dug out around them to emphasize their structure. Then I scouted the property for more rocks, big ones, which I carried in both arms or hauled uphill in my wheelbarrow - huffing, puffing, grunting, and hoisting them into the perfect place. Then, big mistake, I planted some cactus - which took over - and will very carefully someday have to be removed.

One year I planted purple and pink morning glories everywhere, giving them sticks and twine to climb. They're beautiful, but quickly take over a whole flowerbed.  The mint does the same thing, so I learned things of that sort are better in containers.

Another year, zinnias and sunflowers were my fascination and they are both adored by bees, butterflies, and birds. The sunflowers like to have support, so I loosely tie them to tall sticks. 

Roses I haven't much experimented with - imagining them to be difficult, but I did transplant one from another location where it would have met its demise. It seems to be happiest when I remove its blooms - and produces even more. It's a beautiful creamy orange color, with a soft and sweet fragrance.

Gladiolas are some of my favorite flowers, but this year I didn't have many. They're another flower that sometimes needs a stick to prop against. They grow quite tall and have a multitude of blooms which get heavy with rain. 

This year, I'm off to a late start in tending the garden. Sometime, when I wasn't paying attention, my mother planted bee balm in my flowerbed. It has become one of my favorite additions - as it attracts bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds. And, it has an interesting, sharp, herbal smell. This year, since it's so late - the flower options are limited, so the garden has to rely on strong perennials which are still appearing - and the few things I recently added: dark pink Gaura, yellow mums, purple aster with yellow centers, and some pale pink dianthus with a magnificent, soapy, rose-scent.

Some photos from late in the evening - after adding new plants. You'll see the lily-of-the-valley, red bee balm (mostly seed heads now), purple spike, and a pale frosty green foliage with light orange flower (name forgotten). Also, a few photos from this morning - including a grumpy Number One after I warned a bird of her presence.

pale pink dianthus - soapy, rose-scent

purple spike

dark pink Gaura - bumblebees love this

purple aster

dark pink-red bee balm - beloved by bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds

orange butterfly weed, wild

aggravated expression of tabby, bird warned of its presence

Friday, July 29, 2016

Monday, July 18, 2016

Stitcht, zoom.

A zoom-in detail of the stitched wordsmithing within the letter "C" of my header:
stitched wordsmithing - toile la la, jennifer hawkins hock
stitched wordsmithing - toile la la, jennifer hawkins hock
Stitcht is a concept magazine I created for friends during the past year. It consists mainly of collage art of inspiring or humorous fashion imagery, but I decided to include some machine-stitched wordsmithing in its title header. I named the magazine Stitcht because its pages are stitched in assembly and because many of the collages are stitched to the page.

Monday, June 20, 2016

19th and 20th Century Artist Interiors: Painted Documents

2D to 3D: Artist Room Studies by Jennifer Hawkins Hock are gimlet-eyed views of 19th and 20th century interiors painted by artists.  2D to 3D: Artist Room Studies presents assemblages of 15 paintings featuring as their subject artists' portraits of their own studios or domestic interiors.  Group One includes three-dimensional assemblage studies of room portraits by Henri Matisse, Gwen John, Edouard Vuillard, Pierre Bonnard, Rene Magritte, Raoul Dufy, Gustave Caillebotte, Frederick Childe Hassam, Vincent van Gogh, and Vilhelm Hammershoi.  Group Two of 2D to 3D: Artist Room Studies is currently in progress and highlights room portraits by Frederic Bazille, Odilon Redon, Vanessa Bell, and the artist's own studio.  Additional rooms by artists featured in Group One will appear as well.

View of a View of a View

Quai Saint-Michel as 2D to 3D Artist Room Study of 1916 Atelier, Quai Saint-Michel by Henri Matisse, followed by a view of Quai Saint-Michel from the Seine:
Artist Room Study 5 Matisse - Jennifer Hawkins Hock, 2014/2015

Artist Room Study 5 Matisse - Jennifer Hawkins Hock, 2014/2015

Atelier, Quai Saint-Michel - Henri Matisse, 1916

Quai Saint-Michel viewed from the Seine, photo - Jennifer Hawkins Hock